Science

Introduction

HYA3 contains 3% of hyaluronic acids with different molecular weights, including low, medium, and high molecular weight hyaluronic acids and hyaluronate cross-polymer.

Mechanism

The biological effects of hyaluronic acid depend heavily on its molecular weight. Hyaluronic acid with high molecular weight stays on the surface of the epidermis to create an invisible film coating capable of limiting transepidermal water loss (TEWL) due to evaporation and subsequently keeping the skin soft, smooth, and hydrated.1

Hyaluronic acid with medium molecular weight is capable of penetrating the stratum corneum to hydrate deeper layers of the skin.1 Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (<5kDa) is able to penetrate further into the epidermis and reach the subcutaneous layers, hydrating the skin as well as stimulating the production of collagen.

Hyaluronate cross-polymer inhibits the degradation of hyaluronic acid via the inhibition of hyaluronidases, reducing TEWL to keep the skin soft and supple. 1-2

Panthenol (a provitamin of vitamin B5) is included in the product to further compliment the hydrating effect of hyaluronic acid. When applied topically, panthenol is converted to pantothenic acid, a component of coenzyme A and holo-fatty acid synthase that is essential to normal epithelial function.

Studies have shown that panthenol-based formulations increase skin moisture and have a significant effect on skin barrier function by decreasing TEWL. 3-6

Formulator’s Notes

Pilling has always been an issue after the application of hyaluronic acid products. The optimization in the amount of large molecules such as crosspolymer and thickener used in this formulation eliminates the issue, allowing smooth application of makeup subsequently. The thoroughly tested ratio of high to low molecular weight hyaluronic acid fastens absorption into the skin without leaving any sticky residue. 

1. Essendoubi, M., Gobinet, C., Reynaud, R., Angiboust, J., Manfait, M. and Piot, O., 2015. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Research and Technology, 22(1), pp.55-62.
2. Brown, T. J., Alcorn, D. and Fraser, J. R. E., 1999. Absorption of hyaluronan applied to the surface of intact skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 113(5), pp. 740-746.
3. Tezel, A. and Fredrickson, G., 2008. The science of hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 10(1), pp.35-42.
4. Camargo, F. B., Gaspar, L. R. and Campos, P. M. B. G. M., 2011. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62(4), pp. 361-369. 
5. Stettler, H. et al., 2017. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28(2), pp. 173-180.
6. W. Gehring and M. Gloor, Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration, Arzneimittelf, 50, 659–663 (2002).