Science

Introduction

REL1 with Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol contains 1% concentration of retinol encapsulated in an oil soluble liposome. Retinol is an effective anti-aging ingredient stimulating the synthesis of collagen that ultimately accumulates in the papillary dermis and increases cellular turnover. Encapsulation of retinol in liposome enhances delivery across several layers of the epidermis without skin irritation and increases stability by providing protection against exposure to light and air.

Mechanism

Topical application of retinoic acid results in histological improvements, such as increasing dermal collagen synthesis and blocking collagenase activity, thus preventing collagen degradation.1-3 Retinol, a precursor of endogenous retinal and retinoic acid, was recognized as an effective antiaging treatment after it was reported to induce epidermal thickening and enhance expression of cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II (CRABPII) and cellular retinol-binding protein (CRBP).4 In clinical studies, topical retinol treatment significantly improved fine wrinkles and affected markers of photoaging, including matrix metalloproteinase, collagenase, and collagen.5-6

Dimethylmethoxy chromanol is a powerful antioxidant used in cosmetical formulations,7 providing photoprotection against UVA radiation through the inhibition of reactive oxygen species generation, thus reducing premature skin aging. It also acts as a scavenger of reactive carbonyl species, inhibiting the carbonylation of the proteins involved in DNA repair and subsequently increasing cell turnover.

Formulator’s Notes

The combination of oils is non-comedogenic and non-greasy. The oil-based formula can reduce trans-epidermal water loss as the last step of every night skincare routine.

Griffiths C, Russman AN, Majmudar G et al. Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid). New Engl J Med 1993; 329: 530–5.
Fisher GJ, Reddy AP, Datta SC et al. All-trans retinoic acid induces cellular retinol-binding protein in human skin in vivo. J Investig Dermatol 1995; 105: 80–6.
Fisher GJ, Datta SC, Talwar HS et al. Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism. Nature 1996; 379: 335–9.
Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. J Investig Dermatol 1995; 105: 549–56.
Pierard-Franchimont C, Castelli D, Cromphaut IV et al. Tensile properties and contours of aging facial skin. A controlled double-blind comparative study of the effects of retinol, melibiose-lactose and their association. Skin Res Technol 1998; 4: 237–43.
Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin1. J Investig Dermatol 2000; 114: 480–6.
Buenger, J., Ackermann, H., Jentzsch, A. et al. An interlaboratory comparison of methods used to assess antioxidant potentials. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 28, 135–146 (2006).